About the author

Richard Connerney

Richard Connerney was a fellow for the Institute of Current World Affairs (ICWA) and a former Phillips Talbot Fellow for the Institute of Current World Affairs (ICWA). He lived and worked in Lucknow, India from 2005-2007. Before joining ICWA he was a lecturer in the Department of Philosophy at Rutgers University and a senior editor of Tricycle: The Buddhist Review. Connerney studied Sanskrit and classical Tibetan on the way to earning an M.A. from the University of Hawaii in Asian Religion. First arriving in India in 1990 at the age of 19 as an exchange student, he returned in 1994 with the help of an overseas study grant from the University of Hawaii Office of International Studies and Programs. He speaks Hindi, Urdu and Nepali, among other languages.

The Upside-Down Tree: India’s Changing Culture

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Imagine a vast, ancient banyan tree—its roots tangled deep in centuries-old traditions, while its branches stretch upward, reaching toward the bright, swirling winds of modernity.

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Sound Bite

When he called India a "functioning anarchy," economist Kenneth Galbraith may have been thinking about Uttar Pradesh (UP), in northern India. Known as a home of deep poverty, incurable corruption and sticky social problems, UP is the "other" India; the one that modernity has largely left behind, and this book is a good-natured chronicle of Rick Connerney's repeated residencies over the last 18 years in that state.

Most of India's 1.13 billion people live far from the call centers of Bangalore and Delhi and Westernized cities like Mumbai. A huge slice of humanity, 17.5% of the world's population, is practically invisible and impenetrable to most Americans. Exploring the realities of agriculture, business, the environment, politics, the economy, marriage, language and the arts, the author introduces the real people of India. At the heart of each chapter lies an epiphany about Indian culture—Copernican intellectual shifts, radical reverses in the way the author made sense of the environment, when the evidence seemed to support one conclusion but further experience pointed to a different answer.

About the Book

Imagine a vast, ancient banyan tree—its roots tangled deep in centuries-old traditions, while its branches stretch upward, reaching toward the bright, swirling winds of modernity. This is India, a land of paradox and transformation, where the old and new continuously intertwine in unexpected ways. Richard Connerney takes us on an intimate journey into the heart of this complex nation, focusing on Uttar Pradesh, a place often overlooked yet vital to understanding India’s cultural heartbeat.

Far from the glossy images of booming metropolises and tech hubs, Connerney reveals a world where poverty, corruption, and social challenges persist, but so does an indomitable spirit shaped by custom and history. His metaphor of the Ashvatta—the upside-down tree from Hindu mythology—beautifully encapsulates the bewildering, sometimes contradictory changes sweeping through society. Here, tradition doesn't simply resist progress; it evolves alongside it, sometimes in harmony, sometimes in tension.

From shifting family dynamics and the quiet revolution in gender roles to the collision of globalization with deeply rooted spirituality, the book paints a rich tapestry of a nation negotiating its identity. Education and technology emerge as powerful agents of change, bridging gaps yet also threatening to erode ancient knowledge. Yet, amidst all this flux, the resilience of India’s cultural soul shines through.

In short, Connerney offers more than a dry sociological study—he delivers a vivid, nuanced portrait of a nation balancing on the edge of transformation, where the future is being forged as much by the gods of tradition as by the engines of modernity.

About the Book

Richard Connerney spent eighteen years making repeated trips to Uttar Pradesh, one of India's poorest and most overlooked states, and this book is his attempt to make sense of what he saw. When economist Kenneth Galbraith called India a "functioning anarchy," he might well have had UP in mind — a place defined by deep poverty, entrenched corruption, and social problems that development has largely bypassed. Connerney's title comes from the Ashvattha, the upside-down tree of Hindu mythology, and it's a fitting image for a country where change seems to flow in multiple directions at once, defying easy explanation.

The book draws on a series of dispatches Connerney wrote for the Institute of Current World Affairs between 2005 and 2007, expanded during a fellowship at the MacDowell Colony. The result is a collection of vivid, ground-level encounters: Lucknow's fading culture of refinement and courtesy, the harrowing lives of manual scavengers still cleaning sewage by hand, death rituals along the Ganges and the battle over water pollution, the failing fisheries of Goa, and the chaos of monsoon survival in Kipling's Vermont. He also grapples with the caste system through the lives of low-caste Chamars in Manupura and finds unexpected lessons from his housekeeper Sona, who taught him more about dignity and resilience than any academic text.

This is travel writing with real intellectual weight, honest about India's contradictions without falling into either romantic idealism or easy despair. Readers interested in Indian society, culture, and the complicated reality behind the country's modernization story will find it genuinely rewarding.

Additional information

Weight N/A
Book Type Ebook, ePub, Hard cover, Soft cover
Pages

214

Release Year

LC Classification

DS414.2.C657

Dewey code

954.05'32–dc22

BISAC I

HIS017000 HISTORY / Asia / India & South Asia

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